While there are a number of good restaurants on the upper Westside you’d be hard-pressed to name a really good steakhouse in that part of town – that is, unless you have been to Roth’s. Roth’s Westside Steakhouse has been in business for about four years now and its reputation is growing, but it still lies beyond the radar screen of most Manhattan carnivores (which is quite surprising because the steaks and service are excellent and the dining room is quite attractive).

Situated on the corner of 93rd Street and Columbus, Roth’s is open for both lunch and dinner through the week, with brunch offered on Saturdays and Sundays. The dining room has a rustic flavor with dark wood accents and lantern lighting. The candle-lit tables are roomy and the seating is comfortable. All in all the setting is a romantic one especially at dinner time when there is live music (there is a pianist early in the week and a jazz trio on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, as well as during Sunday brunch).

Roth’s wait staff is more than helpful. And when it’s time to order, your waiter, while displaying a tray of various cuts of beef, will explain each type and the differences between them.  So if you don’t know a rib eye from a sirloin you’ll get some pointers.  By the way, if you’re not a steak fancier there are a number of other choices. Several seafood entrees are available including salmon, jumbo shrimp scampi, a crab-crusted filet of sole, and a fish-of-the-day selection. There’s also lemon pepper chicken, baby-back ribs, a veal chop and Lamb Three Ways.

For starters, I began with a sensational salad called Onion, Red and Yellow Tomato Salad, which was made with juicy beefsteak tomatoes and topped with crumbled blue cheese. There are several other salads offered, including chicken caesar and a new lobster salad.  Appetizers include a number of selections from the deep such as fried calamari, a lump crab cake, baked clams, jumbo shrimp and lump crabmeat cocktail. There is also the de rigueur French onion soup. The salads and appetizers generally range in price from $5 for a house salad to $12 for a jumbo shrimp cocktail.

My sirloin steak entre was tender and flavorful, and at 16 oz a perfectly ample portion. It was priced at $29, which is about what you can expect these days at a good steakhouse, perhaps even a few dollars less and a good value given the size.  Most entrees are priced between $18 and $30 although there is a chopped steak burger for considerably less and a “classic porterhouse” steak for considerably more. A variety of tasty sides are offered including spinach (creamed, sauteed or steamed), sauteed onions, mushrooms, grilled asparagus, and potatoes in various forms – a great selection to accompany your entre. They are priced at $6 per side.

For dessert, I kept it simple with a passion fruit sorbet that was a perfect finale to a splendid meal. Other savory desserts include homemade cheesecake, a warm chocolate cake and an assortment of gelatos, all priced at $6.

I really enjoyed my meal at Roth’s. The atmosphere was inviting and the food was excellent. Steak lovers will be happy eating there but so will anybody else who enjoys good hardy food without the fluff. It’s a find!

Roth's Steakhouse / 680 Columbus Ave. / NY, NY 10025 / 212-280-4103